Tuesday, March 17, 2009

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 17 - The End of Trail

As with every fun, there is an end to it. And this is it for our Finnmarkslopet 2009 race coverage.
Although I haven´t been the musher participating in this amazing event, I still feel sadness about it all ending.

For a short week I had the oportunity to become part of it, by helping Mikael and Paula with preparations, organising, packing, feeding, dropping and taking care of their amazing dogs, befriended all fourteen of them, learned their personalities and watched them work, rest, recover and work again during the race.

I met many wonderful people, from the tireless volunteers and race organisers, to the devoted dog handlers and mushers. Inhaled the mutual excitement, unspoken understanding, and passion, shared tears of happiness and sorrow, and the joy of acomplishment. I learned about the toughness of mind of men and dogs. About the togetherness. I got adicited. And yes, I aim to become part of it one day... Hopefully soon...

Hope you enjoyed the words and pictures I brought you, and been able to soak in at least a bit of that atmosphere, one can´t really describe, but has to live through.

Some moments were captured in this album: http://picasaweb.google.cz/kippsiberians/Finnmarkslopet2009#

Happy Trails and Wagging Tails!

Katerina

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 6a - The Restart

Saturday, March 7, 2009 - The restart of Europe´s longest and toughest, and the world´s northernmost race - FINNMARKSLOPET - is on! Enjoy the atmosphere:
The first teams of the 8 dog class (500km FL) arrive to the restart on Alta river, while racing sleds of the open class teams (1000km FL) await at the starting positions.

Mikeal´s team shortly after arrival to the restart. Now we will rehook the dogs on the racing gangline.
Restart area, filled up by the open class teams. Atmosphere is rising in excitement, anticipation and eagerness. From now on, the bare mountains, the glare ice lakes, windswept tundra and jumble ice on mighty rivers welcome all the teams that worked hard the whole year, awaiting their life time adventures
Race marshal Don Lyrek, posing and smiling for the camera

Mikael showing race judge mandatory equipment
The first open team on the go!

Another team on their way, being given the "go" signal by race marshal

Note people lining up at the bridge. There were also bonfires on the river banks and folks were handing out hot dogs to the passing mushers, along the way to the first checkpoint Jotka

Timone getting ready to lead Mikael´s team for 1000km over the arctic What a great surprise it was, seeing him leading all the way, mostly in single lead! Atta boy!
See more pictures from the restart and other from the whole race here:

Friday, March 13, 2009

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 16 - Mikael and Team reached the finish line!

Mikael and his brave 9 co-travellers just completed the 1060 km Finnmarkslopet 2009! Woo-Hoo!
Congratulations to race well done!

They finished on 17th place exactly at 19:30, after 6 days, 7 hours, and 29 minutes!

Here is a translated text from the Finnmarkslopet website, from his interview at the finish line:

- "My goal was to complete the race", says Mikael Jutila from Finland when he crossed the finishing line, as number 17. He started in Finnmarkslopet already four times, and this is the second time he completes it. In 2007 he finished in 12th place. The nine dogs that crossed the finish line this year looked strong and vigorous. The musher seemed to be doing good as well. - "I am not tired at all", he says, "but now it´s time for dog care and then sauna for myself - I am a Fin afrter all!", he adds with a smile.

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 15 - Timone leads his team toward the finish line!

Howdy all!

Just got off the phone with Mikael!

He left the last checkpoint (which is just for signing in and out, not for resting) Jotka, 15 minutes ago (15:14)! Woohoo! He has only 53km left!
Timone singlehandedly leading the team to the restart

He sounded quite tired, but happy with the team´s performance. He said he didn´t even know in which position he´s curently running and all he cares about is not pushing the dogs too much. He rested them a bit more carefully during the entire race until now, just to make sure they are happy and willing to keep going.

The fourth dog that was dropped, which I could not find out, was Dogge, the only boy among the four dropped dogs.

He also proudly said that (his favourite) Timone (the main leader, who started really being a leader at age 8) is running better and better as the race progresses and when I asked him if he put him in another position at all, during the entire 1000km journey, he replied briskly: "no way!", and added: "sometimes I had to put another dog beside him once in a while, otherwise he ran single lead mostly". Atta boy, Timone! I wish I was there to scratch you behind your ears, when you lead your team safely across the finish line this evening.
Timone starting a team howl at the restart

On the other hand, mabye better I am not there tonight, I would cry like crazy :)

So here´s to: Timone, Tahti, Cassie, Blackie, Baffi, Turre, Stuffe, Rudi, Musti and Mikael - Have a safe and fast finish!

Katerina

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 14 - Mikael and Team on their way to Alta!

Hi all,
just got a message from Paula:

"All is going great. I am driving to Alta now, expecting Mikael to arrive sometime around 18:00. We are exhausted and dirty, but very happy!"

Mikael continues with 9 dogs towards Jotka and Alta! The stretch between Karasjok and Alta, awaiting them, is 138km long.

Will be back with more info during the day. In the meantime, you can follow the teams that are on their way to the finish line, and also those behind, on the official result list, which is being updtated every few minutes, on this link: http://www.finnmarkslopet.no/race/results/status.jsp?rid=41

Unfortunately, Swedish fellow musher Kenneth Gjemmestad scratched last night in Karasjok. He had 10 dogs on his team then. There is only one musher, representing Sweden, left in the race - German Torsten Kohnert, who is now resting in Karasjok.

Update at 12:40 (Friday, March 13) - Kenneth got CO intoxicated while sleeping during his 8 hour mandatory rest in the last checkpoint Karasjok. He is in hospital and should be fine in couple days. What a sad end to the race, but sure very happy ending otherwise! Speedy recovery, Kenneth!

Good luck to all the remaining teams on the trail and wishing Mikael and the 9 athletes a fast and speedy ride to the finish line!

Katerina

Thursday, March 12, 2009

Finnmarkslopet 2009: It´s A Girl! (The 2009 Champion is Known!)

Inger-Marie Haaland crossed the finishline in Alta five minutes ago! She had a historicaly fastest run from Karasjok to Alta and finished with 9 dogs. She gives the biggest tribute for the team´s success to her beloved lead dog Ore.

Her acumulated running time was 75 hours and 23 minutes, while her rest time totals 51 hours and 27 minutes.

The most exciting news is that Inger-Marie is a rookie! She became historically the first rookie and the first woman to ever win this tough event! It took her 5 days, 6 hours and 50 minutes to complete the 1000km Finnmarkslopet. Needless to say, Inger-Marie also broke the record!

Huge congratulations! Female mushers rock! :)

Closely following and on their way to Alta are Kjell Brennodden, Trond Orslien and Roger Dahl.

Mikael is still on his way to Karasjok.

Check out the most recent updates and news on http://www.finnmarkslopet.no/

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 13 - Latest Updates

What a drama between the frontrunners! Inger-Marie and Kjell left Karasjok checkpoint just 7 minutes apart! But Inger-Marie´s team runs like the wind, and while passing Jotka, she already had a 50 minute lead on Kjell. Now they are both sprinting toward the finish in Alta and I assume they will arrive very early this evening!

Follow the race on NRK - http://www.nrk.no/ and on Finnmarkslopet´s official website! NRK has a great coverage this year, so does Finnmarks Dag Blad (Alta´s daily newspaper).

In the meatime, Mikael reached Levajok, did not leave any dogs behind and did not rest even for a single minute, and headed straight for Karasjok. He is currently running between 18 and 19th position, still with 10 dogs in team! He should reach Karasjok this evening, and will take his 8 hour mandatory layover there, before the final stretch to Alta, through Jotka.

Paula wrote me she is already dreaming of her own bed :)
Distance races are not tough just for the mushers and dogs, but very much so for the handlers, that drive cars from checkpoint to checkpoint, cook food, take care of dropped dogs, make sure drop bags are on place, pack and clean up remaining equipment and dog food, left behind, cheer their mushers on, and wait in the cold. And not to mention the hard, devoted work of the volunteers, race officials, people that run the checkpoints and provide acomodation and food. I spoke with a few folks that run restarurants in the checkpoints and they worked in 24 hour shifts, trying to please all the mushers and race followers, to the fullest. That all is not to be forgotten.

I will try to call Paula tonight and see if I get more detailed info about the team.

Katerina (so much wishing to be there :))

Finnmarkslopet 2009: One Little Curiosity

As I unpacked my things today, I realized I haven´t mentioned this special edition of Finnmarkslopet wine, produced each year in limited quantity.

Every year the wine has a different name of a checkpoint or place on the Finnmarkslopet trail. So may I present to you the 2009 Finnmarkslopet red wine named SKOGANVARRE:

As the quantity produced is quite limited, the wine is available in special wine shops in Alta only since the Friday before the race start, until it is sold out.
And since I had no time to buy a bottle before the hectic ceremonial start, neither after comming back to Alta, I was so happy when I got Paula´s message: "take a bottle from those I bought. It is from Mikael and I and is included in your handler contract" :) Thank you so much, guys!

Katerina

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 12 - Back in Alta

Sadly, I am back home in Vedjeon now, took a lift from Alta with friends. I took a bus from Tana on Monday morning, after I dropped Kayla and Dotty one more last time, hugged Mikael and wished the team a great and safe journey to Alta.

Picture of the landscape, taken from the bus.

Olufjord - at the bus station, switching busses

I got back to the camping, where we were staying, at 6:30 pm. Normally I would think a bus ride, six or more hours long, is LONG. But this was the shortest day long bus ride I ever had. I planned to update the blog with latest race news or at least read a book, but I slept like a baby all the way. The bus driver promissed to stop right at the camp entrance, so it was a great help and one less problem to solve - how to get to the camp.

I took a hot shower and dropped to bed immediately. On Tuesday morning I was back in the center of Alta, visiting at the race office and cheering the last finishing teams from the 500km race up, as they aproached the finish line infront of Park Hotel.

Finnmarkslopet has it´s own song, which is played only at the finish line each year, for each team, arriving. It is Conquest of Paradise by Vangelis. It makes every single hair on your body stand, and in my case, it brought tears to my eyes, every time a team aproached. Whenever I run this race once, and finish, I will be crying like a baby, I can promise you that already!

Chatting with Fredrik Filander, after he finished.

Fredrik and Nina packing sleds on their truck

One of Fredrik´s dogs Hannibal resting after the long journey

Posing with this year´s first prize - brand new Snorre Naas "Skunk" sled

The first prizes

David Dale from Alta, arriving at the finish line

Dariusz Morsztyn from Poland just 50 meters before the finish line

Dariusz´s dogs immediately resting once stopped at the finish. The team is made up of siberian huskies, two siberian husky/malamute crosses and one alaskan husky. Dariusz said it was great adventure and he felt very close with the nature.

Everything in Alta, this time of the year, has Finnmarkslopet on it :) These are special edition post cards and stamps, available only during the race. They start to sell on Friday, one day before the start of Finnmarkslopet, every year. I obviously had to send one to my parents :)

Infront of the ice wall presentation of Finnmarkslopet´s sponsors. This ice presentation is very typical and traditional for this race.

Huge herd of raindeer, walking across the road, on the way home from Alta. A very typical site in this part of the world!

What else to say? It was an unforgetable, very intense and very emotional experience. The spirit, the atmosphere, the togetherness, that brought dogs, men, nature and culture together and made us all one family for a few days, is too strong to describe and forget. I must be back. As soon as possible.
And one more thing to add: I thought when we moved to Strömsund, the so called south part of northern Sweden, that we moved north. But the true North lays above the arctic circle, where the windswept tundra, the rocky mountains and twisting rivers with glare ice, make you respect the big white open, where raindeers roam in hundreds and Saami people still live the old traditional way. It is the land of the spirits. It has trapped me and I must experience it together with my dogs, to feel complete.
--Yes, I fell in love with the Great North, entirely
Katerina

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 11 - Mikael´s progress from Tana on

Unfortunately, I had to end my journey in Tana and had to head back home sooner than planned. Jachym got ill and we decided it would be the best if I came back to help care of our dogs, the house, etc.
I don´t regret a single minute of the trip! It was a lifetime experience and I am so grateful that I was able to be a part of this absolutely fantastic race!

Here are in the meantime a few updates on Mikael´s team, as Paula keeps me informed by messages from her mobile phone:

Mikael had a good rest in Tana and departed as schedulled. He called me from the trail to thank for my help (which I thought was very sweet of him) and said the team and him are fresh and eager to keep going.

On Monday evening he arrived to Neiden around quarter to ten, rested for 7 hours and hit the trail again, towards Kirkenes. Kirkenes is basically the half way point, as it is 538km into the race. Paula wrote that all went smooth to Kirkenes and the team rested well, before departing back to Neiden shortly before 2 o´clock in the morning. He took 9 hours in Neiden II, which he left at half past four yesterday afternoon. I got a message from Paula then, that Mikael will only snack the dogs, change booties and drop Fiksu in Varangerbotn, before heading back on the trail to Sirbma, 766km into the race.
I am not sure why was Fiksu dropped, if it was due to shoulder or wrist soreness, of if she was just tired. Will try to find out.
Exactly as planned, they stayed for a bit more than an hour and continued towards Sirbma, where they arrived at 1:22 this past night.
After 9 hours of rest, the team is back on the trail, marching towards Levajok again. They have 766km behind them and 294km of adventure is still waiting ahead. There is yet Levajok, Karasjok and Jotka to be reached, before getting back to Alta.
Geeze, I wish I was there!

And that is all for the most recent report on Mikael´s team, for now!

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 10 - Tana

Every checkpoint has it´s own charm, that is totally without any doubts. But Tana has completely surpassed all my expectations. No wonder that many teams take their 16 hour mandatory rest here.

It was a lot of driving through the wide valley of Tana river, surrounded by the bare mountain landscape, to reach this tiny town, so far up north.

At first I thought, how the heck are we all (dog trucks) gonna fit in here, on a parking lot behind the Tana Hotel. But it showed up, that the hotel has also cabins to rent, toillets, showers, kitchen and other "outside" facilities, with it´s own large parking space, and just a few steps away from where the drop bags are stored for mushers to take, and where teams rest, on a small meadow, protected from wind and bad weather by trees that surround three sides of it.

The teams came out of the wilderness right into town, crossed the main road and arrived to a beaufitully prepared finish line, elevated to higher level, by adding perfectly hard packed snow right under the finish line arch. A huge snow sculpture of a dog team (complete, with sled and musher) welcomed arriving teams, standing right by the finish line, and reporters from NRK (Norwegian National Television) and local comentators kept crowds entertained while waiting for the teams. Several mushers had been interviewed as they arrived.

Infront of the hotel, right beside the finish line, a real nordic outside market took place. Folks (many of which were Saami people) were selling everything from food made on open fire, home baked cakes and pies, to raindeer skins, raindeer hand made boots, mittens, woolen nitted gloves, boot liners and other handicrafts, heavily used in the harsh winter conditions, not just by the Saami people that call this area home, but also by mushers and other outdoor enthusiasts. In the north part of Scandinavia, everyone will tell you that handcrafted woolen and skin products are more valuable and functional, than much of the hi-tech equipment. As a result of that, you see most mushers wear woolen mittens, boot liners, sweaters, hats, pants, etc., while their feet are protected by sealskin, raindeer or filt boots, with liners made of wool, sled dog hair and birch bark. Back to basics big time! And I totally love it.

Lit up candles charmed the whole atmosphere even more and an ice sculpture of a bear welcomed everybody inside the hotel restaurant, opened whole night. A festival of Saami song singers and other artists was on for the mushers and race followers, and I thouht it was an awsome cultural event idea, of bringing the race together with the local culture and traditions. A perfect harmony and cooperation.

The race office was situated downstairs, in a large school room, where Tana´s high school students, that help running this checkpiont, worked on laptops to bring the latest race updates to the world. The walls were decorated with all musher profiles and photos, made by the students.
Mushers had a large common room for sleeping, while race officials and vets had the other one.

Among the first teams that arrived to Tana were Nina Scramstad, Sigrid Ekran, Harald Tunheim, Inger-Marie Haaland and Kjell Brennodden.
Mikael arrived at quater to eleven at night and looked a bit tired. He said the trail was "rocky mountains". This was the longest leg of the race, 110km between Levajok and Tana. Mikael will take the mandatory 16h. layover here and is schedulled to leave at 15:12. Time differential (equalization of time difference from the starting times) will be done for each team during their 16 hours rest. Mikael will be dropping Mimmi here, as well, as she is tired. Mimmi is one of the youngest dogs on his team, she is just 2 years and she is doing very well, not just working, but also handling all the stress and hustle around. This shy, yet curious girl with puppyish look and behaviour sure did a great job, running 323km of the race.

As we waited for Mikael to arrive, before I found myself a spot on the floor of the cozy, well heated race office (which, beside other "luxury" had plugs for recharging mobile phones!), I went in the restaurant to have a cup of coffee and try one of the delicious apple pies, as Paula rested in the car, catching up on sleep. My original plan was to have something warm to eat, but there was a power shut down and the whole checkpoint ran on generator. Folks in this part of the world are simply prepared for everything and I learned from the handlers and race officials, that power shortage is very common during the race, in these artcic areas. The restaurant was crowded anyway, candle lights on every table made everyone feel welcome.

I dropped Kayla and Dotty and made Kayla a warm soup, in order to keep her rehidrated after the tough running in the race, and went to bed. After a short hour of sleep, Paula woke me up to make coffee for Mikael. Let me tell you, being more than half asleep, after sleeping only couple hours in the past 12 hours, in dropping temperature, is quite a challenge to make a good coffee.
After watching Mikael take care of the team, I took spare food, left over from the drop bag and fed Dotty and Kayla. That means I´ll have to get up again in 2,5 hours, to let them out. Mikael was quite tired and asked me if I could have a look at the team during the night, when I go to drop the two girls, and if anything is wrong (dogs without blankets, not resting properly, etc.), I should wake him up.

After 1,5 hours of sleep, I dragged myself out of the cozy sleeping bag (funny, how a sleeping bag, designed for 30 below, and woolen socks and sweater on, don´t make you sweat at all, even in a room with temperature around +20/25°C, when you are tired) and went into the night again. The temperature dropped to about -15°C as I could guess. Some of the festivities were still going on and it was 3:30 in the morning! I dropped the girls, took Kayla for a short walk to move her stiff shoulder a bit and gave her a short massage. When I checked on the resting team, they were totally one with the ground - sleeping hard and deep. All but couple had their blankets on, but they were all so well snuggled in the thick straw beds, that I thought it is not worth waking Mikael up. He also needed a good long rest.

Among the resting teams, I saw Roger Dahl, and since he was one of the front runners, and those already left, I figured out he was taking his 16 hours mandatory layover here as well.
All teams were already in or out (on the way to next checkpoint Neiden), but the team of Jana Henychova from my home country of Czech Republic was still on the trail. I spoke shortly with one of her handlers and he told me she had to take extra rest in Levajok, as the dogs didn´t want to eat. But he said she was already on her way, and should arrive shortly.

And that is about all from the night in Tana.

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 9 - More News from Levajok

Hi, I am back with more info from Levajok checkpoint, 213km into the race. This is a tiny place in the middle of the windswept mountains, on the banks of mighty Tana river. The checkpoint is run by the Levajok Fjell Stuge - the mountain cabins, a favourite spot for summer fishing. The original old buildings burned down completely couple of years ago, just one week before the race started. It was very heart breaking for not just the owners, but many that fish here, or folow the Finnmarkslopet race. A great job was done to repair the buildings and put the camp back to life.

The atmosphere in Levajok was somehow the best along the race, that I have noticed. The tiny restaurant was crowded (no wonder, all the home made cooked stew, pies, meat soups and other great food was worth it!). The checkpoint was decorated with handcrafted ice towers with holes in them, with large outdoor candles inside, providing magical glowing light, Norwegian flags and evergreen branches were stuck in the snow, to add more celebrative touch. A big bonfire was made in the fire pit on the hightest point of the river bank and many race fans, handlers, volunteers and race officials found it´s warm flames and the raindeer skins to sit on, a much welcomed cozy warm up.
Unfortunately, by around mid day the showers were not available anymore, due to hot water shortage.

Mikael left Kayla out of the team, as she had quite a sore shoulder and did not recover even after the 7 hours of rest, with a lot of thorough massage and aplication of Algyval.
She went immediately to sleep, as we loaded her in the truck, otherwise she looked quite good. Dotty was so glad to have another dog passanger with her! :)

From the competition point of view, it looks like Nina Skramstad is currently dictating the race a bit, she went straight through Skoganvarre last night and rested only 5 hours here in Levajok.

I spoke with friend and fellow musher Fredrik Filander (from Sveg, Sweden, running with purebred siberain huskies) and he said the trail from Skoganvarre was really tough. "Everyone warned me about the climbing on this stretch, that when it looks like I have the worst behind, the worst will yet come", he said. When his team swiftly mangaed all the horrible climbing, he said to himslef "now, that wasn´t so bad". And he was quite happy about passing a few teams on the way up. "Then something was wrong", he smiled. "I aproached a few mushers, who just walked behind the team. And then I looked up and saw this wall. So I became one of the walkers as well".
I personally believe that if nothing goes wrong for the team, Fredrik will make his first Finnmarkslopet 500 just fine. He has a great sense of humor that will help him overcome the odds.

I took the oportunity to make also some real camera shots of the resting teams and some details of dogs eating, sleeping, etc. , as the Levajok checkpoint is set up so that resting teams are withing reach from the line, where specators are allowed. I will upload those photos when I am back home and provide a link to their separate album.

Well, time to hit the road towards next checkpoint: Tana. Here is a series of pics, showing Mikael leaving Levajok:

Leaving the camping spot
Waiting for the checkers to give the team the go signal. In the front - another team getting ready to leave.

Mushing down the river towards Tana

Sunday, March 8, 2009

Finnmarkslopet 2009: Part 8 - Good Morning from Levajok

Enjoy the latest pictures and results!

Just talked with Mikael as he masaged the dogs. Trail is puite tough, windblown and stones sticking out. Kayla is out due to sore shoulder.

Result list - part 2, as of 7:30 am

Result list part 1 - as of 7:30 am

Mikael massaging his dogs. They are already fed and snuggled in their woolen blankets.

An 8-dog class (500km) team arriving Levajok checkpoint. This is the last checkpoint, where both races (the 500km and the 1000km) are together. From now on the FL1000 will lead to Tana, while the FL500 goes to Karasjok.

Mikael´s sled

Volunteers, race officials, handlers, fans and other race followers enjoy the bonfire and sitting on raindeer skins, on the high banks of Tana river.

More later!
Sent using a Sony Ericsson mobile phone